
- Engine Will Not Crank[GO]
- Cranks - Will Not Start[GO]
- Runs Rough On Low & Will Not Accelerate[GO]
- Backfires on Full Throttle[GO]
- Electrical system problem[GO]
- Engine not running (After Hot Test)[GO]
- Stops on High Idle[GO]
- Hot - Will Not Restart[GO]
- Cannot Reach High Idle RPM (No Load)[GO]
- Starting Hints - Command Retractable Start Engine[GO]
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| ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK |
- Battery lead connections are loose.
- Battery charge low or discharged.
- Battery amperage too low.
- Starting leads reversed.
- Fuse in wiring harness blown.
- Keyswitch wired wrong.
- Safety switch malfunctioning.
- Wiring harness incorrect.
- Wiring harness wired wrong.
- Starting cable connectors loose.
- Connectors corroded or worn.
- Starter/Solenoid malfunctioning.
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- Electric clutch air gap wrong.
- Drive pulley against engine PTO face.
- Drive belt wedged between idler pulley.
- Drive belt wedged between belt guide.
- Drive belt tension adjusted too tight.
- Starting torque too high for starter.
- Automatic compression release inoperative.
- Combustion chamber flooded with oil/gas.
- No oil in crankcase causing seized rod.
- Drive shaft coupling forcing engine shaft against internal thrust face eliminating crankshaft end play.
- Transmission brakes too tight.
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| CRANKS - WILL NOT START |
- Fuel tank empty.
- Fuel hose kinked, pinched.
- Fuel filter clogged.
- Fuel valve shut off
- Fuel solenoid inoperative.
- LPG Regulator not opening.
- Water in fuel, stale fuel.
- Wrong type fuel (Diesel).
- Throttle control in stop position.
- Choke not fully closed.
- Choke on, flooding hot engine.
- Power take off clutch on.
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- Safety interlocks inoperative.
- Spark plug wire disconnected.
- Spark plug improperly gapped.
- Wrong type of spark plug.
- Wiring harness not connected.
- Wiring broken, loose or wrong.
- Transmission not in neutral.
- Electrical clutch not adjusted.
- Cranking sepeed too slow to start.
- Spark plug loose.
- Low or no compression.
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| RUNS ROUGH ON LOW & WILL NOT ACCELERATE |
- Spark plug gap incorrect.
- Engine not properly warmed up.
- Running out of fuel.
- Low idle set too low (Below 1000 RPM).
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- Low idle fuel setting too lean.
- Electric clutch dragging.
- Parasitic load on PTO shafts.
- Crankshaft end play zeroed drive.
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| BACKFIRES ON FULL THROTTLE |
- Water contaminated fuel.
- Running out of fuel.
- Fuel mixture too rich or too lean.
- Carburetor fuel solenoid shorting.
- Throttle or choke improperly set.
- Dirty carburetor needs cleaning.
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- Kill switch contacting intermittently.
- Keyswitch malfunctioning.
- Safety interlock(s) malfunctioning.
- Faulty fuse in unit control box.
- Leaking, worn valves in engines.
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| ELECTRIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS |
Charges and gradually discharges
- Improper ground causing battery to lose charge when accessories activated.
- Faulty battery will not hold charge.
Will not charge
- Regulator-Rectifier failed.
- Regulator-Rectifier not grounded.
- Flywheel magnet not charged.
- Fuse blown or circuit breaker open.
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Blowing fuses
- Regulator-Rectifier burned out.
- Leads pinched causing shorting.
- Alternator stator shorted.
Electric clutch will not engage
- Wrong Regulator-Rectifier used.
- Wiring wrong or not grounded.
Engine runs on when switched off
- Ignition grounding terminal or ground lead not connected at ignition module.
- Faulty switch.
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| ENGINE NOT RUNNING (AFTER HOT TEST) |
| Smoke rises out of top of horizontal shaft engine or flywheel screen on vertical shaft engine. |
- Paint or oil burn off.
- Battery cables reversed causing charging stator to short out.
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- Defective regulator-rectifier causing charging stator to short out.
- Electric clutch - No running clearance.
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| STOPS ON HIGH IDLE |
- Running out of fuel.
- Running out of oil in crankcase.
- Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
- Keyswitch malfunctioning.
- Safety interlocks malfunctioning.
- Spark plug lead loose.
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- Fuse blown in control box.
- Carburetor out of adjustment.
- LPG Regulator malfunctioning.
- Loss of vacuum to LPG Regulator.
- Tight drive belt causing crankshaft bearing to seize.
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| HOT - WILL NOT RESTART |
- Overheated - Clogged in cooling fins.
- Overheated - Blocked shrouding.
- Closed choke flooding engine.
- Throttle not in midway position.
- Throttle left in stop position.
- Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
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- Fouled spark plug.
- Kill lead shoring out.
- Ran out of fuel.
- Lost compression.
- LPG Regulator not functioning.
- Vacuum too low to open LPG Regulator.
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| CANNOT REACH HIGH IDLE RPM (NO LOAD) |
- Choke not completely opened.
- Throttle control cable clip loose.
- Throttle control improperly installed.
- Fuel filter or line clogged.
- Fuel inlet line too small.
- Fuel running low.
- Fuel tank too far from engine.
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- Fuel pump malfunctioning.
- Gravity feed tank below carburetor.
- Foreign material in carburetor.
- Carburetor out of adjustment.
- Spark plug gapped wrong causing intermittent firing.
- Drive system binding.
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| STARTING HINTS - COMMAND RETRACTABLE START ENGINE |
Dual control cable instructions
- Close choke.
- Set throttle to full.
- Pull starter rope to set engine on compression.
- Return starter rope, then give a full, steady pull.
- When engine starts, return choke to full open immediately.
- Position throttle control to desired setting..
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Single control cable instructions
- Move throttle/choke lever to choke position.
- Pull starter rope to set engine on compression.
- Return starter rope, then give a full, steady pull.
- When engine starts, move the control lever to the desired setting.
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