Small Engines Small Engine Troubleshooting

Published on March 20th, 2015 | by Jacks


Small Engine Troubleshooting

Your Engine just started acting up and you don’t know what to do.

Below is a chart of common Engine problems and some easy troubleshooting to fix the problem you may be experiencing.

This chart is to be used as a guideline for troubleshooting engine problems. For specific engine tuning or recommendations consult your owner’s manual.

  • Engine Will Not Crank
  • Cranks – Will Not Start
  • Runs Rough On Low & Will Not Accelerate
  • Backfires on Full Throttle
  • Electrical system problem
  • Engine not running (After Hot Test)
  • Stops on High Idle
  • Hot – Will Not Restart
  • Cannot Reach High Idle RPM (No Load)
  • Starting Hints – Command Retractable Start Engine

  • Battery lead connections are loose.
  • Battery charge low or discharged.
  • Battery amperage too low.
  • Starting leads reversed.
  • Fuse in wiring harness blown.
  • Keyswitch wired wrong.
  • Safety switch malfunctioning.
  • Wiring harness incorrect.
  • Wiring harness wired wrong.
  • Starting cable connectors loose.
  • Connectors corroded or worn.
  • Starter/Solenoid malfunctioning.
  • Electric clutch air gap wrong.
  • Drive pulley against engine PTO face.
  • Drive belt wedged between idler pulley.
  • Drive belt wedged between belt guide.
  • Drive belt tension adjusted too tight.
  • Starting torque too high for starter.
  • Automatic compression release inoperative.
  • Combustion chamber flooded with oil/gas.
  • No oil in crankcase causing seized rod.
  • Drive shaft coupling forcing engine shaft against internal thrust face eliminating crankshaft end play.
  • Transmission brakes too tight.

  • Fuel tank empty.
  • Fuel hose kinked, pinched.
  • Fuel filter clogged.
  • Fuel valve shut off
  • Fuel solenoid inoperative.
  • LPG Regulator not opening.
  • Water in fuel, stale fuel.
  • Wrong type fuel (Diesel).
  • Throttle control in stop position.
  • Choke not fully closed.
  • Choke on, flooding hot engine.
  • Power take off clutch on.
  • Safety interlocks inoperative.
  • Spark plug wire disconnected.
  • Spark plug improperly gapped.
  • Wrong type of spark plug.
  • Wiring harness not connected.
  • Wiring broken, loose or wrong.
  • Transmission not in neutral.
  • Electrical clutch not adjusted.
  • Cranking speed too slow to start.
  • Spark plug loose.
  • Low or no compression.


  • Spark plug gap incorrect.
  • Engine not properly warmed up.
  • Running out of fuel.
  • Low idle set too low (Below 1000 RPM).
  • Low idle fuel setting too lean.
  • Electric clutch dragging.
  • Parasitic load on PTO shafts.
  • Crankshaft end play zeroed drive.


  • Water contaminated fuel.
  • Running out of fuel.
  • Fuel mixture too rich or too lean.
  • Carburetor fuel solenoid shorting.
  • Throttle or choke improperly set.
  • Dirty carburetor needs cleaning.
  • Kill switch contacting intermittently.
  • Keyswitch malfunctioning.
  • Safety interlock(s) malfunctioning.
  • Faulty fuse in unit control box.
  • Leaking, worn valves in engines.


Charges and gradual discharges

  • Improper ground causing battery to lose charge when accessories activated.
  • Faulty battery will not hold charge.

Will not charge

  • Regulator-Rectifier failed.
  • Regulator-Rectifier not grounded.
  • Flywheel magnet not charged.
  • Fuse blown or circuit breaker open.
Blowing fuses

  • Regulator-Rectifier burned out.
  • Leads pinched causing shorting.
  • Alternator stator shorted.

Electric clutch will not engage

  • Wrong Regulator-Rectifier used.
  • Wiring wrong or not grounded.

Engine runs on when switched off

  • Ignition grounding terminal or ground lead not connected at ignition module.
  • Faulty switch.


Smoke rises out of top of horizontal shaft engine or flywheel screen on vertical shaft engine.
  • Paint or oil burn off.
  • Battery cables reversed causing charging stator to short out.
  • Defective regulator-rectifier causing charging stator to short out.
  • Electric clutch – No running clearance.


  • Running out of fuel.
  • Running out of oil in crankcase.
  • Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
  • Keyswitch malfunctioning.
  • Safety interlocks malfunctioning.
  • Spark plug lead loose.
  • Fuse blown in control box.
  • Carburetor out of adjustment.
  • LPG Regulator malfunctioning.
  • Loss of vacuum to LPG Regulator.
  • Tight drive belt causing crankshaft bearing to seize.


  • Overheated – Clogged in cooling fins.
  • Overheated – Blocked shrouding.
  • Closed choke flooding engine.
  • Throttle not in midway position.
  • Throttle left in stop position.
  • Carburetor solenoid malfunctioning.
  • Fouled spark plug.
  • Kill lead shoring out.
  • Ran out of fuel.
  • Lost compression.
  • LPG Regulator not functioning.
  • Vacuum too low to open LPG Regulator.


  • Choke not completely opened.
  • Throttle control cable clip loose.
  • Throttle control improperly installed.
  • Fuel filter or line clogged.
  • Fuel inlet line too small.
  • Fuel running low.
  • Fuel tank too far from engine.
  • Fuel pump malfunctioning.
  • Gravity feed tank below carburetor.
  • Foreign material in carburetor.
  • Carburetor out of adjustment.
  • Spark plug gapped wrong causing intermittent firing.
  • Drive system binding.


Dual control cable instructions

  1. Close choke.
  2. Set throttle to full.
  3. Pull starter rope to set engine on compression.
  4. Return starter rope, then give a full, steady pull.
  5. When engine starts, return choke to full open immediately.
  6. Position throttle control to desired setting..
Single control cable instructions

  1. Move throttle/choke lever to choke position.
  2. Pull starter rope to set engine on compression.
  3. Return starter rope, then give a full, steady pull.
  4. When engine starts, move the control lever to the desired setting.

Jack’s Safety Tips: Before servicing or repairing any power equipment, disconnect the spark plug and battery cables. Remember to wear appropriate safety glasses and gloves to protect against harmful chemicals and debris. View our Disclaimer.

Featured Parts and Products:


About the Author

Jack's Small Engines has been providing parts for outdoor power equipment online since 1997. We also run a service center for outdoor power equipment like riding mowers, snow blowers, generators, chainsaws, and just about anything else.

116 Responses to Small Engine Troubleshooting

  1. Jack Sminkey says:

    Honda small engine 161 cm ( Power washer.) Engine GJAEA 3584766 N5AF.. No spark when trying to start.. The on and off switch is okay. magneto is in Question? No points or condenser. What could it be?
    Thank you, Jack Sminkey

  2. david canup says:

    I have a 3.5 hp tecumseh engine on a sears edger and I can not get it to start I am not getting a spark at the plug.
    I replaced the coil and cleaned the fly wheel and replaced the coil. it does not have points or a condenser. I cleaned the flywheel I check the stop switch by disconnected the stop wire I can holt the spark plug wire and I feel nothing.What could I be missing.

  3. bill pitt says:

    i cant get motor to idle its a b&s 300 series 4.50 model 9t602 type 5019 serial 11082954 aug 2011 I clean the carb ,replaced diapharm ,checked for water ,cleaned valves replaced head gasket ,checked flywheel key, checked breather tube and o-ring.I ran out of ideal’s any help would be appricated

  4. richard says:

    morning my name is Richard from Australia and have just gained a contract (I am a motor mechanic} to maintain a fleet of vehicles and also trailer winches with kohler command pro 14 429cc engines and am not up to speed on small engines except basics. I wonder if you can help me , engine is not charging battery (only putting 12.6v into battery) how does battery get charged and what could problem be and how to rectify it . other problem is key start wont turn motor over but I am assuming its because of battery low . any help would be much appreciated thanks Richard.

    • Dennis Berger says:

      The automattic compression release is not operating likely because 12.6 volts is plenty to turn this motor. Adjust the engine valves to clearance .004 on both intake and exhaust. Adjust at 1/4″ past top dead center (of piston) I’ve heard of adjusting the exhaust valve to .012 but I always go with .004 I bet post valve adjustment 12.6v is plenty to fire your machine up

  5. DanD says:

    I have a 3.5 hp Tecumseh engine on a sears edger and I can not get it to start I am not getting a spark at the plug.
    I’ve check the stop switch by disconnected the stop wire.
    I can hold the spark plug wire and I feel nothing.
    I’ve spun the crank with a drill motor, plug on a tester, no spark.

    • Russ H says:

      check flywheel key, if broken replace. make sure gap between magneto and magnets is set right . should be 10 thou. of inch can use a match book cover as gauge loosen mag bolts place cover between mag and flywheel rotate magnet to cover both poles of mag, tighten bolts ,remove match book cover

    • rk says:

      Check cdi, this is what is connected to plug wire. You have to disconnect the black wire that goes to Cdi. Spin flywheel with a drill and check for spark. If no spark cdi is bad. You need to make sure this unit doesn’t have points and condenser

  6. Steve Szabo says:

    I have four cycle tecumaseh Engine 8 hp Rear engine Rider Toro. Electric Start. Key start wont tur..
    Help would be appricateg.

    Steve Szabo

  7. Al Schrader says:

    To Jack Sminkey or anyone with this problem.
    Sometimes the new coil is defective. You can test a coil with an ohm meter.
    Be sure your coil ground wire has a solid corrosion free connection and make sure your kill wire is not shorted to ground.
    You can test these circuits with your ohm meter.
    And lastly make sure the magnet is strong and the magneto gap is correct.
    You can test the strength of the magnet by bringing a piece of steel sheet metal close and the magnet should grab it out of your hand.

    Some B&S models have points and some don’t. If your is a points model check the points for burned contacts and the proper gap.
    test instruments are your best investment verses replacing this or that until you find what was bad.
    Good luck.

  8. Frank Paine Jr says:

    I’m trying to tune up my DR mower- it has a 15 horse twin v Kawasaki engine- I replaced the plugs and both coils, but still no spark to the plug…not sure why.Its getting gas, but no spark. Help me!

  9. Robert Derry says:

    i have a 17 hp kohler command that backfires when i try to start it, it has a new coil and i checked the valves what else could i check?

    • Dennis Berger says:

      Do you have a anti backfire solenoid on your carb? If so it may need replacing. Other than that I would check the valves again and inspect the carb it’s likely to do with one or both of these things. It’s pry something small you have over looked you’ll figure it out.

  10. Al says:

    I have a Honda self propelled lawn mower that will not stop right away when the throttle is moved to the stop position when I get finished mowing my lawn. It seems to “Diesel”. What do I need to do to correct this problem.


  11. Paul says:

    Fairly new honda engine on waterpump.
    Crank locks up when pulling recoil.
    Will free uo by forcing propeller back .
    Then back to lock up when recoil is pulled.
    Sounds like something loose inside block.
    Engine was running fine before last shut off.
    Had to get water out of fuel tank. Engine was turned upside down
    to drain fuel.

  12. Ed Akerley says:

    Kohler CH25 (25hp). Soon after starting motor the crankcase breather tube begins flooding into the carburator, gas eventually begins mixing with motor oil in the crankcase and motor floods itself out. Replacement with a new carburator didn’t work.

  13. Marc says:

    Have a 140CC Honda pressure washer engine that goes max RPM for some unknown reason so I replaced it with a spare Tecumseh I had laying around. I thought maybe the engine was undersized for the application and getting overheated then losing it’s regulatory mind.

    Adapted the Honda to a lawn mower, It still works good for a while then goes RPM bonkers.

    • merk says:

      sounds like your govenor is going out

    • Dennis Berger says:

      Check your owners Manuel on setting the engine idle correctly it varies from one to another but you just need to adjust it. You can then fine tune it with the carb screw. I just had to do this on my skid steer it wud Rev very high with or without the throttle lever being moved I jus had to get instructions from engine Manuel to set my engines idle then I adjusted carb screw and she purrs like a kitten

  14. Ken Dill says:

    Have a Husqvarna weed eater that runs great until it gets warmed up.It will cut off and can not get fire to the plug until it cools off. Could this be the coil breaking down and how bad is it to change. Thanks, Ken Dill

  15. Shaun Keen says:

    July 13, 2015 at 10:16 am
    hi, I have a Stihl ts400 cut off saw and when I pull the starter cord there’s hardly anything there, it is so easy to pull so fails the compression test of holding the cord and saw staying still and not falling to the ground. I have looked and looked for answers but I can’t find any help at all, so I’m hoping u maybe be able to give me some advice. I am thinking it needs a new pot, piston and maybe cylinder head but I’m unsure if it will need a new crank and bearings also. I have never got that far with repairs but I am getting better I just need that helping hand on a couple of things. So if u can give me some advice as to why there is no power when u pull the pull cord I will be gladly appreciated mate, and thanks buddy

  16. gordie clark says:

    i have a husky 17.5 hp I put a new battery in and when I turn the key I get nothing,was running fine now nothing please help thank you.

  17. GUY says:


  18. Pingback: How 4 Stroke Engines Work

  19. joe reed says:

    having trouble with a john deere 420 burning up clutches bought a new one have a guy adjust it for me ran for a bit and smoke new clutch what is going on here?

  20. Victor Matos says:

    MY old Bolens starts right up but as soon as you release the key after start up it shuts down. Help, I’ve never seen this problem.

  21. J knight says:

    I purchased a jdz445 w 25 hp Kawasaki. Replaced carb. Noted oil in exhaust shield. Did not try to start. Drained crankcase. Oil consistency & color is like coca cola. Smells a bit of raw fuel. Any comments – is there potential source ofbfuel leakage into crankcase for this engine?

    • Robert Beebe says:

      Two nieghbors have had problem with fuel getting into oil.. According to both, a needle valve doesn’t seat in the carborator when engine shuts down. They now have installed shut off valve in the fuel line. At shut down they close the valve.

  22. ROB says:

    well, if a snow blower motor is backfiring in the muffler it could be the crab to lean on gas mixture our plunged up needs cleaning blowing out with compressor check float level, could be the pin in the fly wheel is on it’s ends puts the motor out of time change the fly wheel pin if it’s not the crab valves should be set at 001 our 002 like a tight snug fit on your feeler gauge this is a tecumseh engine 12 hp same for the 11hp

  23. ROB says:

    hi, if any one having trouble with lawn mowers our snow blowers cranking just back firing if it starts wont run long back firing pulling the pull cord out of your hand this is defiantly the fly wheel pin is cut in half our well on the way take off your fly wheel and replace the half moon pin

  24. Jason says:

    Last time I used my tiller with new engine everything was fine. Went out today to start it and crank rope has no compression at all. Rope coils back as it should just no compression.

    • Luke S. says:

      Maybe a valve stuck open? I’ve had that happen on my tiler before. I pulled the head and watched the valves and the one that didn’t move I gave a light tap with my hammer and it freed right up. Might be worth looking into if it’s still not running.

  25. Robert Baxter says:

    I have a Troy-Bilt power wash with a Briggs& Stratton engine on it that will not start. I’m told by others that there is a small “O” ring that needs to be replaced on the carburetor. If so where would I get the “O” ring

  26. Gary Wahl says:

    I have an older Kohler ch25 mounted on a scag that will crank and start for a second then quit time after time. What could be the problem. Anyone know?

    • Try checking the carburetor for buildup of gummy deposits or varnish which can be caused by the ethanol in your fuel deteriorating fuel system parts. Remove the carburetor fuel bowl and see if any white deposits or grainy deterioted material is in the bottom. While you’re at it, you might as well give the carb a good cleaning too.

  27. Gary W says:

    Fuel filter fine fuel pump shoots good stream of fuel

    • Gary W says:

      Further inspection showed a burned our fuse block so fuse was not making connection. I replaced the fuse block with one i found at Advance Auto Parts and my Scag is back in top operating condition!
      Thanks for your suggestions!

  28. Jim B. says:

    My 6.5 hp water pump runs, but the engine surges as if I was throttling or revving the engine over and over. Can you offer some hint? Perhaps a fuel issue?

  29. Tom Vanherweg says:

    Briggs&Stratton 13hp on John Deere GX85 riding mower. In order to start, I need to turn the rotating screen by hand to bring it to compression stroke and then can start . Is the flywheel key defective?

  30. Michael Courson says:

    I have a 7hp craftsman elec. start selp propelled lawn mower.It ran out of gas and has not started since, i cleaned, tank, carb.,armature,’s getting fire and will not start using starting fluid.Please help.Thanks

  31. Adam says:

    I have a 19hp courage Kohler motor it cranks over real easy when I remove spark plug, but once the spark plug is back in the engine barely has enough power to crank. I have good spark and just replaced battery. Could it be something mechanical, or do you think it’s electrical?

  32. Scott says:

    I have a Toro model 74630 Timecutter zero turn mower. When the motor and engine is heated up typically after about 30 to 45 minutes of operation the pro or clutch locks up and prevents the blades from engaging. Repeated attempts to disengage and re engage the blades only yields a slight chatter but no rotation. Once the mower cools function is restored. Is there an electronic component or other device besideS a costly clutch replacement that I may start with.

  33. Robert says:

    I have a tiller with a Briggs and stratton 5 hp motor. if i spray starting fluid in carb it starts up but dies when it runs out. fuel is getting to the carb, where should i be looking at next, Thx

    • Jim says:

      Robert, did you ever find the problem with your tiller? I have the same problem. I can get it to start with starter fluid, may need to spray it a couple of times. Once it stays running it runs rough. I can get it to smooth out by moving the choke partially closed. Just wondering if you resolved your issue and what was the fix?

  34. Ron says:

    Starts and runs for a couple of seconds, then stalls. Won’t start right away, but if I wait for a few minutes and start, it runs for a few seconds and stalls.

    • Clean the carburetor, check for any build up of gummy deposits or blockages, which would prevent proper fuel flow.

    • RG says:

      A clogged main jet in the carb can cause that. Also, if your float is stuck or partially opened float needle. Not enough fuel entering the bowl. A thorough cleaning should fix the issues.

  35. Shawn DePeugh says:

    I have a husqvarna (not sure of model) It start on the first pull and runs fine for about 10 minutes, but once it gets hot, it will not restart after i shut it off to empty the bag. I usually have to wait 20 minutes or so before it will fire back up. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

  36. Jennifer Dailey says:

    My John Deere Z245’s battery will not hold a charge. And it keeps blowing PTO fuses. What could be causing this.

    • Elaine says:

      Jennifer, I had that problem for a couple years. Kept taking it to mechanic. Turns out it was the positive wire to the battery had gone bad. This was after replacing alternator and battery several times. Argh! There was something on you tube that showed a guy getting the same model mower as mine and he shows in detail how to check it.

  37. wilson Bell says:

    My Kohler Command engine on my z-turn mower (19 hp) pops when cranking especially in cold weather. When it pops it disengages the starter. This happens over and over, eventually reducing the battery strength.

  38. Elaine says:

    I can’t get the spark plug wire back on my JD110 with a Kohler 17.5. It has always been a tight fit recently bought a home maintenance kit to do the maintenance. Found out a mouse had been living in the mower over the winter. Took off housing cover replaced ignition module, now can’t get the plug on the wire. Yes I’ve held my mouth in various positions lol. Any suggestions?

  39. Michael Gindlesperger says:

    Hello, I have an issue going on with my John Deere LX 277. The battery was dead from sitting over the winter. I jump started it with my truck. After running for about 30 seconds I noticed smoke coming from the ignition board. It appeared to be around the area near the capacitor. I did a little reading online and decided to try changing the voltage regulator. I jump started the tractor again and it started right up. It ran for about 20 seconds then the new voltage regulator started smoking and it made a pop sound and cracked the brand new regulator. Thanks in advance for any direction you can give me to fix this problem

  40. RG says:

    Informative site. Have a Kohler SV540 that would not start. Stator, ign switch, solenoid all tested fine. Troubleshot and found a bad rectifier. Replaced the rectifier. Engine started, noticed ammeter fluctuating on the high side, (not normal). The ammeter usually sits steady about 1-2 needle widths on the + side. Engine dies after about 1 minute, 20A fuse still ok. Turn key to ON (not start) ammeter pegs on the NEG side. Noticed light smoke from the top of the engine. Any ideas what may have caused the ammeter to peg on the negative side? Thanks for the help.

  41. stanley bettany says:

    how do I tighten my throttle cable on my mantis tiller

  42. Paul J. Heinz says:

    My Kohler cv4605 dies on a sharp incline

  43. Mike B says:

    I have a 15HP Kohler engine on my tractor that starts fine but runs rough until I disconnect the crankcase hose that connects to the air breather. When I do disconnect it the engine runs like a champ. What is this and how to repair it? Thanks for your help.

  44. bill says:

    troy-bilt trimmer TB70SS – replaced bulb, fuel filter and gas lines. Cleaned carb (disassembled, immersed in cleaner and air pressure), cleaned and oiled air filter. Reassembled and started easily. It stopped after a few minutes and will not start again. Gas in bulb and on plug, new plug, spark present, feel compression when pulling cord. I have compression, fuel, & ignition, So why won’t it start?

    • Mark Elwell says:

      Have same Troy-Bilt ,same trouble as you.Even bought new carb. 25 bucks.I got it at Lowes for 90.00 I bought a cheap hybrid to get by ,and I am going to search for a comm.trimmer backed by a dealer.Big box will sell hundred dollar trimmers all day they’re junk.I have event about 3 or400 over the years.

  45. my 18 hp kohler starts & runs ,blows the fuse once the key is released . rectifier center lead was grounded, replaced rectifier but the center wire is still grounded even before trying to start.

  46. Max says:

    Got a Shindaiwa leaf blower that I’ve cleaned up the carburetor and got running (reasonably) smooth. However it’s blowing fuel/oil out the air intake. Any idea what the problem might be? Thanx in advance.

  47. Luke S. says:

    I have a Toro mower model 20041. Previous owner hit a tree stump and mower stopped working. I have checked the keystock and it is not sheared or even trying to. I thought perhaps a bent crankshaft however my dial indicator shows it to not be, at least not where the blade bolts onto.

    The thing that is stumping me is if I take the spark plug out motor spins freely, however as soon as I put spark plug in and try to fire it up the engine seems to lock up. I pulled the head, the valves are not stuck and there is nothing inside of the cylinder to stop piston movement. Any one have any ideas as to what could be wrong? This is a nice mower and I’d like to fix it!

  48. Joe Weckbacher says:

    K241 on a 1974 JD 110. What I assume was the original coil failed when it slipped down in the mount, making contact with an engine mounting bolt which vibrated a hole in the bottom of the coil. It drained out and failed. This was about 3 years ago. Since then I have put 6 new coils in it all of which fail after about 10-15 hours of use. Put a heavy duty ACCEL coil in today and it failed after 5 minutes. The plug and plug wire have been changed at least once per year. Coil number 5 put in by retired mower mech who put a tractor coil in it which failed after 10 hours. Had him do it in case I was screwing something up. Any thoughts?

  49. Brian says:

    I have a 150cc gocart motor.gy6. Replaced the jug and piston and rings. when I turn it over it locks up after a few turns.checked flywheel and changed out starter.what else could lock it up like that?I can free it up by turning flywheel and after a few turns it does it again.will not do it with spark plug out of the motor

  50. Dawson says:

    22 hp Kohler engine on a scag zero turn. Rebuilt. Reinstalled. Now it cranks but won’t start. Getting sufficient fuel. Spark plugs have spark. What would be my next trouble shoot? Currently at a loss.

  51. Joe Anderson says:

    I have a 1970’s Sears 38″ Rotary Mower (for Custom Tractors) Model #917-25590 whose electric starter, TECUMSEH #32817, doesn’t work anymore, but everything else about this machine works great. I can’t find another starter for this mower because companies that manufacture parts say this particular electric starter is no longer manufactured.

    The problem with the starter is this: Electrically, it runs but it will not throw the gear forward to engage the motor to start the engine. It appears that the shaft is turning the wrong way and doesn’t cause the gear to engage the motor.

    Are there any companies that you know of that sell or repair these starters?

  52. hardat narain says:

    I have a power washer 7.8with a generac motor it would start right up and shuts down quickly I have serviced the motor changed oil etc also took the gas cap off same thing happening also cleaned the cabI dont know what next I can do and am surely need some advice thank you.

  53. Andrew says:

    13hp Tecumseh on a weed eater lawn tractor. The tractor has been sit for a few years. Cleaned all parts and carb. Has no spark. Changed starter and some other parts. Still no spark. Kinda need some help. Would love to fix this project on my own.

  54. Gene says:

    I have a 1974 John Deere 110 with a Kohler K241 10HP engine. When the engine runs for about 5 mins it loses compression and shuts down. After about 20 mins as the engine cools a loud click is head (exhaust valve seating?) and compression returns, the engine starts and mowing may continue. If the tractor is operated at 1/2 throttle, the engine will run for about an hour before the problem returns. I am thinking its the automatic compression release ….thoughts?

  55. charles wilson says:

    I have a John Deere SX 85 riding mower. I’ve always had difficulty starting it depending on where the fwd/reverse/neutral lever is placed. I’ve had to move it around to get the engine to crank. Now, it simply won’t crank at all regardless of where I move the lever. Is there a safety switch on the transmission or lever and where is it located? Anyone have a part number?

  56. Kevin S says:

    I have a McClane edger that is about 35 or 40 years old. It has a Briggs and Stratton i think 3.5 hp engine on it. If the air filter is on, it won’t start. If it is off, it won’t start either. But if i take it off and cover the air inlet, it will start, run for up to 30 minutes and then stop, but it will not accelerate. I have changed the oil, spark plug, drained the gas, cleaned the filter, cleaned the carb (carb cleaner. I did not take the carb off and clean/rebuild. That is above my expertise.) This edger was my wife’s grandfather’s so I’m not sure exactly the age but I do know that before I started it today, it has been at least 10 years since it has started and ran. Does anyone have any ideas?

    • Brandon says:

      More than likely a thorough carburetor cleaning/repair would go a long way, especially when the equipment is that old. If it comes down to having to replace or rebuild the carburetor (especially paying someone else to do it) and other parts, a lot of the time it can be more money and trouble than its worth to repair it.

  57. Gary kinley says:

    I have a john deer z turn. 21 hp. Runs good at first 5 min later starts missing and blowing black smoke. I changed plugs and coils. Still does same thing

  58. TERRY HUEGEN says:


  59. paul compton says:

    I have a 208cc craftsman tiller will not crank..will not even allow one full crank.please. send cause and cure. thank you. love your website.

  60. Randy says:

    Hello. I have a brand new Briggs & Stratton 725exi series engine on my push mower. From the very first pull the engine idle hunts like crazy! It has fresh fuel and new oil.. Brand new just out of box. Please help! Thank you! -Randy-

  61. glenn says:

    scag zero turn runs for 45 min. then drops half power

  62. Peter says:

    I cant figuire how to replace Pull string on m’y toro srlf prppelled mower

  63. lanny walters says:

    my ariens riding lawnmower, model year2012, will not run level. Ichecked spark plug, gas line, flywheel, a little rusty and sanded lightlyand washed with ele. contact cleaner. so any suggestions please?

  64. Stace K says:

    I have a Gravely ZT52HD with the 24HP Kawasaki, it starts perfect and idles. When the blades are not engaged it runs erratic above idle, surging and popping, once the baldes are engaged and engine is on load it purrs like a kitten. Also seems like its not all there all the time, like it is intermittently missing power. New filters, gas, plugs, oil. Where should I look next? Is this common?

  65. Tom says:

    runs full throttle choke closed , open choke engine stalls wont restart unless full throttle choke closed

  66. Jim says:

    I have a Snapper rear tine tiller with a Briggs motor on it. I can’t get it to start under normal circumstances. If I spray a little starter fluid in the carb it starts up then chokes down unless I squirt a little more starter fluid in it. After about the 3rd time, it takes off and runs rough. If I close the choke somewhat it smoothes out but still doesn’t seem to run right. Any thoughts?

  67. barry says:

    hi I have I eberth 6.5 hp engine on my pressure washer I have a problem with the throttle it doesn’t seem to work anymore and when you try to turn off the choke it goes to full idle and you can move the throttle back a forward and nothing happens

  68. Diana white says:

    I have a lawn boy zero turn with Honda engine. It will run for about 10 min. And stop. It will start again bit only run 5 min. Had it to the dealer they can’t fix

  69. steve neil says:

    i have a craftsman riding mower with 13.5 engine with no spark i change the coil. set it right but still no spark what else could it be ?

  70. Steve Neil says:

    i have a B&S 13.5 that i am not getting spark so i change an set a new coil but i still dont have no spark i dont no what else to check i started it up 2 times an the third time it wouldnt start so thats when it quite getting spark

  71. bobby miller says:

    kohler 22 hp single cyclender pumping oil in muffler

  72. Mike Naugle says:

    Toro personal pace mower with B&S engine. Runs great for about 5 minutes, then stalls as though out of fuel. Wait 1.5 minutes, it starts right back up, runs great for 5 minutes, then stalls. Problem is very consistent.

  73. mark croyle says:

    i have a 18 hp johnn deere, it runs good when it starts, but most of the time when cranking it to start, it wont, then when you let off the key after trying to start it,,it sheers the key way. do you know what will cause that?

  74. bill says:

    1 cylinder gas Tecumseh. In a go-kart type vehicles. Started fine the first 100 uses. Now cranks and cranks but wont fire. Plenty of fresh gas and just put in new plug. Still wont fire up. Any thoughts?

  75. Doug varnadore says:

    I have a 5 HP Tecumseh on a go kart and wen I crank it it is OK ,but wen I start going it gets faster and faster with no throttle ,it ideals fine but keeps building speed .I 2as wondering if it might have a electronic choke and if so how do I fix it
    Thanks Doug Varnadore.

  76. Larry says:

    I have a 212cc honda clone on a mini bike . it might be a year old has very low hours . starts right up runs good and strong till on long flat road at full throttle it will only go about a mile and then starts spudering and dyes . it will start right back up and go then does same thing . I have cleaned the carb, changed the plug , changed the gas and made sure full tank is venting . what should I try next ? I thought I might check valve lash but would have to take it off the bike to get cover off. Help.

  77. M. Graham says:

    I have a 5 horse Briggs and Stratton engine on my sons go cart. We bought it off somebody who let the go cart sit for 2 years outside without use. We replaced the carburetor and gas tank because of rust in both. engine gets good spark and now seems like its getting gas but won’t start. It seems to backfire through both the carburetor and the muffler? when I pull the plug its usually wet appearing. The needle valve is screwed all the way in(came that way from factory.) What am I doing wrong?

  78. Dmac says:

    I have a Northstar hot water pressure washer with 6.5hp B&S Vanguard. Burner quit working so began troubleshooting. No voltage to burner control panel. Isolated voltage regulator from circuit and used jump box to supply 12vdc. Burner works perfectly. Back tracked to engine charging system. Alternator is putting out 30-31vac at wot. According to my research, this voltage is sufficient. Move on to regulator. 30vac in from alternator, nothing out. Purchased new regulator 790325. Installed new vr, still no output voltage. Cleaned mounting bracket, screws and vr base to make sure grounding was good. Even used jumper cables to create an additional ground path. Still nothing. This unit is pull start, so no battery. Burner runs on engine voltage output only. Wondering if I received a bad vr. Unusual, I know, but running out of ideas. Can you guys shed any light on this? Thanks in advance.

  79. James Payton says:

    I have a 17hp Brigs Intek on a rear engine Snapper. Engine will start back firing and go dead. Push in the clutch and release the blade control and engine runs fine. Five year old mower-good shape. clean oil filter no water in fuel.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Solve : *
30 + 18 =

Back to Top ↑